Fort Clinch, built before the Civil War, is open daily and is perfect for a bicycle ride down tree-lined roads, catching the view of a nuclear submarine nosing through the sound, just relaxing on the beach or fishing from the shore or pier.
Wide beaches on the east frame the Atlantic Ocean, where shrimp boats prowl among the whitecaps, whales calve in the fall and sea turtles nest in the summer.
The Amelia River and a long sweep of salt marshes, looking a bit like mislocated western prairies, act as a moat against the mainland west. Forested dunes anchor the middle, offering haven to birdlife.